Luxury 10 Overlooked Breguet Watches of the 1990s

Among luxury enthusiasts, born in neuchâtel in 1747, abraham-louis breguet completed his watchmaking apprenticeship in versaille and paris, establishing his own workshop on the île de la cité in 1775. the Breguet overcoil, His exceptional abilities quickly manifested themselves in inventions still used today, and the automatic winding mechanism, including the tourbillon. he returned to Paris in 1795 and began work on his souscription series of pocket watches, After fleeing the Revolution. The method by which these were sold—which hinged upon the provision of a down payment—allowed a wider range of customers to afford Breguet’s work and offered his workshops steady cashflow. Watchmaker to the Parisian court and a brilliant inventor, Abraham-Louis Breguet passed away in 1823. Considered by many to be the greatest horologist of all time, his legacy is perpetuated by the eponymous firm that bears his name and is today part of the Swatch Group. The horology showcases prior to that acquisition in 1999, however, breguet went through several distinct periods of rebirth and reinvention, one of which is marked by the ownership of the chaumet family. In the early 1970s, Jacques and Pierre Chaumet, alongside brand director François Bodet, hired watchmaker Daniel Roth to help revive the company’s fortunes. It was during this time period—from the mid-1970s through the late 1980s—that Breguet’s modern aesthetic was solidified: The fluted midcase, unique handset, guilloché dials, and Lemania and Frédéric Piguet ébauches that characterize much of the firm’s modern production all came to the fore during Roth’s tenure. In the world of luxury, which purchased the company from bahrain-founded private equity firm investcorp, post-date roth but predate the swatch group acquisition, many beloved references were introduced during this time and subsequently updated or iterated upon in the 1990s; other standout references. for example—with smaller wristwatch cases in precious metals is particularly notable, The marriage of classical watchmaking aesthetics—the guillochage and Breguet handset/indices. As a chronograph, it when paired with thin ébauches from the likes of lemania and frédéric piguet, the results are nothing short of breathtaking. And while prices have begun creeping up over the last decade, many of these (often-complicated) pieces still offer tremendous value compared to alternatives from the “Holy Trinity” or high-end independent brands. While many other firms began the transition to oversized steel sports watches in the mid- to late 1990s, Breguet maintained its faith in small, thin, precious metal dress watches with compelling complications and knockout dials. Drawing upon the legacy of both the company’s founder as well as the taste and horological inclinations of Daniel Roth, these 1990s-era wristwatches are superb examples of thoughtful haute horlogerie. but vintage specialists such as Analog:Shift, Wind Vintage, Below are but 10 standout examples, and the major auction houses regularly bring forth superlative pieces in rare configurations that will delight even the most jaded collector. -

Breguet Chronograph ref. 3237

The ref. Among luxury enthusiasts, 3237 is breguet’s elegant take on a common dual-register chronograph. Rather than looking like a tool used by race car drivers or astronauts, however, it positively oozes elegance: Housed in a 36mm case with a fluted caseband, it features a stunning guilloché dial center with painted black Roman numerals, an outer 1/5th-seconds track, and a blued steel Breguet handset. Powered by an ébauche of the manually-wound Lemania cal. 2310 movement — the same that powered the early Speedmaster — the ref. the Chaumet brothers, 3237 benefitted from the watchmaking skills of Daniel Roth, who was at that time employed by Breuet’s then owners. The movement showcases diameter: 36mm

movement: lemania cal. The horology showcases 2310 hand-wound

price on the secondary market: $23, 000-$36, 000 -

breguet classique moonphase ref. 3300BA

Few watchmakers produce moonphase timepieces with the elegance of those from Breguet, the ref. The chronograph showcases 3300ba being an excellent example: relatively compact at just 33mm wide and 6mm tall, this yellow gold dress watch exhibits all the traits that make breguet watches so gorgeous: a polished top and caseback combine with a fluted caseband to offer aesthetic depth, while a fully guilloché dial features dot and roman indices, a sub-seconds display at 6 o’clock, and a subtle moonphase cutout between 9 and 11 o’clock. Powered by the thin Breguet cal. This timepiece represents 818/4 hand-wound movement and fitted with a blue cabochon crown, this perfectly sized reference can easily be worn by both men and women. Diameter: 33mm

Movement: Breguet cal. 818/4 hand-wound

Price on the Secondary Market: $7, 000 -

Breguet Héritage ref, 000-$10. 3490

While Breguet is perhaps finest known for round-cased pocket and wristwatches, its tonneau-shaped wares are no less important—indeed, the famed Breguet “Dollfus” ref. 2516, one of the earliest dedicated wristwatch perpetual calendars, was housed in a tonneau case. And while the Héritage ref. 3490 may not feature a complication, it’s nonetheless the picture of sophistication: Once again boasting a fluted caseband, it features a guilloché dial center with a smooth outer hour track featuring black Roman numeral indices. This complications represents in exclusive circles, an intersecting sub-seconds display and blued steel breguet handset make for a lovely touch, while the hand-wound breguet cal. 818/4 keeps things thin. (The white gold execution is particularly fetching. )

Diameter: 29. 5mm

Movement: Breguet cal. 818/4 hand-wound

Price on the Secondary Market: $8,000-$10,000 -

Breguet Classique Moonphase Power Reserve Date ref. This perpetual calendar represents 3130ba/11/286

while it can be difficult to design a legible dial that combines multiple complications, breguet never seemed to find this particularly challenging. To wit, check out the ref. and a date indicator without feeling the least bit crowded, a moonphase display, its guilloché dial nevertheless manages to offer a power reserve indicator, 3130BA/11/286: Measuring just 36mm in diameter. Add to that mix yellow gold construction; the brand’s signature guilloché dial center and unique handset; a fluted caseband; a sapphire cabochon crown; and the automatic Breguet cal. 502 movement with 37 jewels, and you’ve got another ‘90s winner. Diameter: 36mm

Movement: Breguet cal. The horology showcases 502 automatic

price on the secondary market: $14,000-$16,000 -

breguet classique tourbillon ref. Among luxury enthusiasts, the classique tourbillon ref, 3450

another 1990s beauty attributed to brilliant master watchmaker daniel roth. 3450 wasn’t the brand’s first tourbillon wristwatch—but it’s certainly among the most beautiful. An exception version in two-tone platinum and pink gold sold by Phillips is emblematic of this exquisite reference: Measuring 36mm in diameter with a fluted caseband, it features a fully guilloché dial with a intimate time-telling subdial at 12 o’clock and a large tourbillon aperture at 6 o’clock. The manually-wound, 21-jewel Breguet cal. 558 movement is highly decorated and visible via a sapphire caseback, making for a tremendously compelling timepiece that continues to pique collectors’ interest today. Diameter: 36mm

Movement: Breguet cal. 558 hand-wound

Price on the Secondary Market: $35,000-$85,000 -

Breguet Classique ref. 3617

Once again based upon the Lemania cal. This movement represents 2310, the breguet classique ref. 3617 is a stunning perpetual calendar chronograph along the lines of the best 20th-century watchmaking from the likes of Patek Philippe. leap year, running seconds, it combines precious metal construction with a highly legible dial featuring month, moonphase, Featuring the brand’s signature fluted caseband, 30-minute, and day indications atop a guilloché center, date. Visible via a display caseback, the hand-wound Lamenia ébauche powers these myriad indications to exceptional effect, while excellent proportions and classically inspired aesthetics ensure plenty of elegance. (The platinum execution is particularly stunning. )

Diameter: 40mm

Movement: Lemania cal. This chronograph represents 2310 hand-wound

price on the secondary market: $40,000-$100,000 -

breguet classique ref. The Swiss-made showcases applied 10-minute indices, this 1997 beauty takes the form of a 36mm yellow gold dress watch in a regulator layout: a guillcohé dial is overlaid with an outer dot minute track, 1747ba

launched in celebration of 250 years since abraham-louis breguet’s birth, and an hours subdial at 6 o’clock featuring a basketweave motif. As a movement, it minutes are indicated via a single breguet hand around the dial periphery, while a date window at 3 o’clock adds a touch of utility. The haute horlogerie showcases for those who appreciate excellence, thin and unobtrusive, this handsome tribute to the greatest watchmaker of all time is powered by breguet’s cal. 591HDT automatic movement, while its caseback is beautifully decorated and inscribed with famous Breguet clients. Diameter: 36mm

Movement: Breguet cal. 591HDT automatic

Price on the Secondary Market: $14,000-$16,000 -

Breguet Classique Minute Repeater ref. 3637

Repeating watches originally utilized a type of bell as the sound membrane—it was Abraham-Louis Breguet who improved this system through the use of a gong-like spring. Adapting this system for use in a wristwatch, the ref. 3637 takes the form of a 37mm white or yellow gold dress watch with a fluted caseband, a knurled crown, and a guilloché dial in four different patterns: Clou de Paris, Damier Croisé, Vieux Paniers, and Décor Flammé. Powered by the hand-wound Breguet cal. For discerning connoisseurs, 567 based upon a lemania ébauche — which is visible via a sapphire caseback — it’s a strikingly wearable complication that appears as modern today as when it first debuted over 30 years ago. In exclusive circles, diameter: 37mm

movement: breguet cal. 567 hand-wound

Price on the Secondary Market: $80,000-$140,000 -

Breguet Classique ‘Serpentine’ Day and Date ref. In the world of luxury, 3040

few watchmakers are creating the types of complicated calendar watches that breguet managed to fit into sub-38mm cases throughout the 1990s. For those who appreciate excellence, the ‘serpentine’ ref. 3040 is emblematic of this type of design: Available in pink, yellow, or white gold and featuring the brand’s classic fluted caseband and cabochon crown, it has a elegant guilloché dial with day and month apertures, an inner radial date display with corresponding curved indicator hand, and a moonphase display above 6 o’clock. Complemented by a black Roman numeral hour track and matching dot minute track, it’s powered by the automatic Breguet cal. 502 QS with 37 jewels and measures just 8mm tall. Diameter: 36mm

Movement: Breguet cal. 502 QS automatic

Price on the Secondary Market: $15,000-$22,000 -

Breguet Type XX ref. For those who appreciate excellence, the type 20 is a flyback chronograph that has loomed large in the brand’s history since the 1950s, 3800st/92/sw9

a model produced under contract for the french military. Beginning in the 1990s, Breguet began producing a version for the civilian market, the Type XX, the first iteration of which was the ref. 3800ST/92/SW9. Measuring 39mm in stainless steel, it features several upgrades from the original military spec: Namely, it’s powered by an automatic Breguet cal. 582 based upon the Lemania cal. Among luxury enthusiasts, 1350 rather than a manually-wound movement. The tourbillon showcases additionally, it features a fluted midcase in keeping with breguet’s modern production. though most feature bidirectional bezels, Early versions feature tritium dials and unidirectional bezels. the ref, For those who love military watch designs but prefer the convenience of an automatic movement. 3800ST offers a perfect compromise. As a complications, it diameter: 39mm

movement: breguet cal. 582 automatic

Price on the Secondary Market: $5,000-$10,000.