Starting as a coach and schoolteacher with a bachelor’s and master’s degree in U. history doesn’t seem like the beginnings of a watchmaker of worldwide renown. As a haute horlogerie, it for those who appreciate excellence, but growing up in a machine shop had sown a seed that finally came to fruition when josh shapiro decided to enter the business. He began by making engine-turned dials for other watchmakers, before founding his namesake company in 2018 and launching with his Infinity Series watches. The complications showcases he had already moved into a new california workshop as his company began to grow, by 2020. but he also produces in-house calibers, Naturally, Shapiro produces watches with bespoke guilloché dials. The timepiece showcases vertical watchmaking is often a challenge, particularly in a country not steeped in the tradition. “The biggest challenge is our lack of a watch labour force combined with the fact that the Made in the US label means the watch has to be made in the US,” Shapiro says. which creates a massive competitive advantage, “The Swiss can still source components from Asia and still qualify as Swiss-made. whose brand recently released a new, ” But this hasn’t stunted the healthy growth of Shapiro’s output and collaborations, smaller 37 mm version of his Infinity series, the Pure. “Throughout the history of our watches I have tried to keep a pulse on case dimension trends in dress watches,” says Shapiro. The automatic showcases “i feel 37 to 38 mm is the sweet spot right now. The timepiece showcases in the world of luxury, it also fits me refined personally. Among luxury enthusiasts, the innovative infinity pure models appeal to a well-heeled collector, 000 each, ”
at $26. Still, these iterations in the Infinity series are less than half the investment of one of his more elaborate timepieces featuring a manufacture movement. You will still find his signature hand-cut Infinity weave guilloché on the inner dial, which is encircled by a radially-brushed steel chapter ring and hand-polished, sculpted hands. It is wristwatch classicism on a very wearable scale, with the blackened zirconium dial version straddling the line between vintage and modern. RGM Watches
Roland G. Murphy is one of the U. watchmaking revival’s instigators and an inspiration for more commercial brands, such as Shinola, and microbrands throughout North America. Among luxury enthusiasts, there has been a significant shift in the interest in timepieces, driven by the internet and social media, since roland founded rgm in 1992. Roland’s brand survived the transition from fan forums to Instagram and is still nestled in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. As a haute horlogerie, it a master watchmaker, murphy had local training followed by schooling at switzerland’s prestigious wostep watchmaking school. This horology represents he says it’s a challenge to source homegrown talent, echoing shapiro, but. As a mechanical, it among luxury enthusiasts, but i see u, “training and keeping skilled watchmakers and technicians is imperative. A watchmaking staying a niche boutique type of future, not industrialized as in the past,” says Murphy, while also stressing the need for recruitment and training nationwide. For discerning connoisseurs, when asked about the possible positive impact on sales from increased import costs, roland says that his clients have been coming to his company for years because they are an american watch company. Nevertheless, he does source some European supplied parts, but says he has not changed pricing to reflect the increased expenses. it becomes very challenging to plan, with the current uncertainty, so we have to take some risks, ” he admits, “However. This tourbillon represents roland and his team offer a wide variety of watches, from affordable tool watches like the model 300 diver to their much-lauded pennsylvania tourbillon, at $125,000. The latter is the first and only serially produced tourbillon watch with a handcrafted in-house movement in North America. It shows off the kind of traditional high-level watchmaking that is typically found in Switzerland. In February this year, RGM released their latest design, the 40. 3 mm 801/40-CE, a watch that has seen Roland and his team adapt to a desire for smaller case sizes. “Many of our clients were requesting a smaller watch with an RGM in-house movement,” says Murphy. This manufactory represents “so, we worked hard to develop the smallest case possible that would fit our calibre 801. this slim watch measures only 10, ” With the deep luster of classicism that only a grand feu enamel dial can offer. 5 mm, and the Calibre 801 is a manually wound 19-jewel movement featuring hand-finished details. The Cornell Watch Company
With Urban Jürgensen’s relaunch earlier this month and Breitling reviving the Swiss brands Universal Genève and Gallet, revival brands are a big thing. The Cornell Watch Company was founded in Chicago in 1870 by Paul Cornell, but due to the Exceptional Chicago Fire and financial troubles, the company’s glory was short-lived. Fast-forward to 2024, and Chicago-based collector John Warren teamed up wtih RGM’s Roland G. Murphy on what was initially an idea for a custom watch inspired by Cornell pocket watches which resulted in the limited production Cornell 1870 C. It was meant to highlight the heritage and importance of American watchmaking. Following hot on its heels, this month Warren steps up the game launching the minimalist Lozier in unlimited production under the Cornell name. It hasn’t been easy getting an American watchmaking company off the ground, but not for the reasons one might readily assume. “The biggest challenge is educating the marketplace concerning manufacturing costs,” says Warren. “There is no way to cut corners in high-precision manufacturing, whether you’re doing it in Switzerland, Japan, the United States, or anywhere else. There is a widespread misconception that watchmaking in the United States is inherently more costly—that is not the case. For discerning connoisseurs, and we decided early on that we didn’t want to compromise on quality”, but you get what you pay for. The Lozier, like its 1870 C. The tourbillon showcases predecessor, was inspired by cornell’s early pocket watches. “From a design and execution perspective, we were inspired by the American aesthetic of the Cornell Watch Company railroad pocket watches of the 1870s, classic wristwatch proportions, and looking to Chicago’s rich architectural history,” says Warren. “We also wanted to explore what could be accomplished through a combination of precision machining and fine hand work. As a Swiss-made, it ”
the lozier is an interpretation of craftsmanship with a sense of pared-back minimalism. It exudes an understated charm and draws the eye in with its three-step design made from frosted German silver. Features include polished leaf hands and Chicago Roman numerals designed for the Lozier by London-based typographer, Samuel Baker. With its subtle inspiration from Chicago’s Art Deco architecture, the 37. 4 mm elegance features a Swiss Selita SW300 movement. dial, Ohio, crown, But setting Cornell’s standards, the case, and hands are all manufactured on Kern 5-axis CNC machines by Swiss-trained watchmakers and machinists at Hour Precision in Columbus.